Route Map: The Full Loop, Section by Section

NC500 Route Map: The Full Loop, Section by Section

The NC500 is a 516-mile loop around the far north of Scotland, starting and ending at Inverness Castle. On paper it is a single signed route. On the ground it is five very different drives stitched together: a gentle start across the Black Isle, a dramatic climb over Bealach na Bà to Applecross, a wild coastal stretch through Wester Ross and Assynt, an Atlantic edge along the north coast of Sutherland and Caithness, and a softer run back south through farming country to Inverness.

This page gives you the full picture: section by section, with distances, driving times and the practical things you need to know about the roads themselves. Use it alongside our 7-day NC500 itinerary or the 5-day version, and our full hub guide if you are starting from scratch.

The route in summary

·        Total distance: 516 miles (830 kilometres).

·        Start and finish: Inverness Castle car park.

·        Direction: clockwise is standard. Anti-clockwise works just as well and is quieter.

·        Total driving time without stops: roughly 13 to 15 hours. In practice, factor 20 to 24 hours of real driving time to allow for single-track sections and weather.

·        Road surface: tarmac throughout. No 4x4 required.

·        Toughest section: Bealach na Bà (only unsuitable for large motorhomes and caravans).

·        Fuel distance: up to 80 miles between petrol stations on the west and north sections.

Which direction should you drive?

The most common direction is clockwise from Inverness. You head west across the Black Isle, up the A835 toward Ullapool, over Bealach na Bà to Applecross, then back north along the coast. The argument for clockwise is that you hit the most demanding driving (the Bealach) in the first third, while you are still fresh.

Anti-clockwise is just as valid. You head north up the A9 to the east coast, run along the top through Thurso and Durness, and only hit the technical west coast toward the end. Anti-clockwise tends to be quieter in summer because most tour buses go clockwise. It also means you finish the trip with the easiest driving, which is handy if you are tired.

Our recommendation: clockwise for first-timers and for anyone less comfortable with single-track roads, because you can loop back if conditions are poor. Anti-clockwise for return visitors or anyone travelling in July and August who wants to dodge the crowds.

Section 1: Inverness to Applecross

Distance: 124 miles. Drive time: 3.5 to 4.5 hours without stops.

The opening section crosses the Kessock Bridge onto the Black Isle (not an island, as you quickly learn) before heading west across Easter Ross. The A862 and A835 are fast A-roads with dual-carriageway sections: it feels like a normal drive. Then at Garve you turn off toward Achnasheen and Kinlochewe, and the character changes. The road narrows, the mountains start, and by the time you reach Lochcarron and turn onto the single-track road to Applecross, you are in completely different territory.

Bealach na Bà is the final act. It climbs from sea level to 2,054 feet in roughly six miles, with gradients of one-in-five and three tight hairpin bends near the top. The summit view, on a clear day, reaches to Skye and the Outer Hebrides. Read our full Bealach na Bà guide before you drive it, especially if you are in a larger vehicle. Large motorhomes, caravans and anything towing should take the alternative coastal road via Shieldaig.

Key stops in this section: Chanonry Point for dolphin watching, Rogie Falls for a short walk to a salmon leap, Attadale Gardens for a break, Applecross Inn for dinner.

Road notes

·        A9, A862, A835 as far as Garve: fast A-road.

·        A832 to Kinlochewe: good single carriageway, occasional narrow stretches.

·        A896 from Kinlochewe to Tornapress: narrow two-lane with passing bays.

·        Bealach na Bà: single-track with passing places, steep, exposed to weather.

·        Alternative via Shieldaig: single-track with passing places but no severe gradients, adds 15 miles.

Section 2: Applecross to Ullapool

Distance: 100 miles. Drive time: 3 to 4 hours without stops.

This is the section most regular NC500 drivers rate highest. You run up the Applecross peninsula on a coast road with views across to Raasay and Skye, drop down to Shieldaig, then drive east through upper Torridon with Beinn Eighe and Liathach rising sharply to your right. Past Kinlochewe the road turns north toward Gairloch and runs along the western edge of Loch Maree, arguably the most beautiful freshwater loch in Scotland.

From Gairloch you head north through Poolewe (home of Inverewe Garden, worth the stop in spring or summer), past Aultbea and Laide to Gruinard Bay, then inland through Dundonnell and over the Braes of Ullapool to Ullapool itself. The town is a proper working fishing port and the busiest on the west coast.

Key stops: Applecross Walled Garden, Torridon visitor centre, Slattadale forest walk, the Poolewe beach, Gruinard Bay beach, Corrieshalloch Gorge just south of Ullapool for a short walk to a suspension bridge over a 150-foot waterfall.

Road notes

·        Applecross coast road: single-track with passing places, spectacular, slow.

·        A896 Shieldaig to Torridon to Kinlochewe: narrow two-lane.

·        A832 Kinlochewe to Gairloch to Braemore Junction: good two-lane road with passing stretches.

·        A835 into Ullapool: fast two-lane.

Section 3: Ullapool to Durness

Distance: 85 miles. Drive time: 2.5 to 3.5 hours without stops.

North of Ullapool the road climbs into Assynt, and the country becomes genuinely wild. You drive through glacier-carved moorland under the distinctive peaks of Stac Pollaidh, Cul Mor, Suilven and Quinag. The B869 coast road (an optional detour) takes you past Achmelvich beach, Clashnessie waterfall and the Stoer peninsula. The main A894 crosses Kylesku Bridge, a beautiful curved concrete structure that won architecture awards when it opened in 1984.

North of Kylesku the road pushes through Scourie (good overnight stop, with a ferry to Handa Island for seabird watching) and Laxford Bridge, then turns east through empty country toward Durness. This stretch has some of the loneliest driving in Britain. You can go ten minutes without meeting another car.

Durness is worth at least a night. Smoo Cave sits on the edge of the village and is the most dramatic sea cave on the mainland. Balnakeil beach, Sango Sands and Ceannabeinne beach are all within a short drive. (See our full list of worthwhile beach stops on this route).
If you have an extra morning, the Cape Wrath ferry and minibus is one of the most memorable excursions on the whole loop.

Road notes

·        A835 Ullapool to Ledmore Junction: good two-lane.

·        A837 to Lochinver: narrow two-lane with passing stretches.

·        B869 coast road (optional): single-track, slow, beautiful.

·        A894 Lochinver to Kylesku to Laxford: narrow two-lane.

·        A838 Laxford to Durness: single-track with passing places.

Section 4: Durness to John o' Groats

Distance: 103 miles. Drive time: 2.5 to 3.5 hours without stops.

The north coast. You drive east from Durness along a series of beaches, low headlands and peat bogs, with the Atlantic ocean to your left all the way. The landscape opens up. After Tongue the road dips inland briefly, skirting the south shore of the Kyle of Tongue, then heads out to Bettyhill and Strathy Point before running across the northern edge of Caithness to Thurso.

Thurso is the biggest settlement on the north coast and has the best food and supermarket options for a hundred miles. From there the A836 heads east through Castletown and on to John o' Groats. Stop at Dunnet Head (the true northernmost point of mainland Britain, five miles north of John o' Groats itself). John o' Groats the village is underwhelming. The reason you come this far east is a mile and a half beyond it, at Duncansby Stacks, where the road ends at Duncansby Head and you walk fifteen minutes to the finest sea cliffs on the loop.

Road notes

·        A838 Durness to Tongue: single-track with passing places.

·        A836 Tongue to Thurso: narrow two-lane, some single-track stretches.

·        A836 Thurso to John o' Groats: standard two-lane.

·        Minor road to Duncansby Head: narrow single-track with passing places, ends at car park.

Section 5: John o' Groats to Inverness

Distance: 104 miles. Drive time: 2.5 to 3 hours without stops.

The east coast run home. You head south on the A99 through Wick, past Whaligoe Steps (a remarkable flagstone staircase down a natural cliff-harbour, well worth twenty minutes), then through the small towns of Helmsdale, Brora and Golspie. Dunrobin Castle sits just north of Golspie and is the most northerly of the great Scottish houses: 189 rooms, French chateau-style towers, falconry displays in summer.

From Golspie the A9 takes you south to Dornoch (small cathedral town, beautiful beach, the famous Royal Dornoch golf course), crosses the firths into the Black Isle area, and runs down into Inverness. This is the softest landscape on the whole loop: farmland, estuaries, oak woods, the occasional castle.

Road notes

·        A99 John o' Groats to Latheron: standard two-lane.

·        A9 Latheron to Inverness: fast two-lane with some dual-carriageway sections. This is the quickest stretch on the whole route.

Downloadable route map

A map and guidebook from Collins are available below and a printable PDF map of the NC500 with every section marked, along with fuel stops, main towns, major attractions and suggested overnight stops.

Practical tips for the drive

·        Allow for double the map-estimated driving time on single-track sections. Passing places, slow-moving vehicles and scenery-stops genuinely add up.

·        Fuel up in Inverness, Ullapool, Durness, Thurso and Wick. Avoid letting the tank drop below a quarter on the west coast.

·        Download offline maps. Mobile signal drops through Assynt and Sutherland.

·        Do not follow sat nav blindly. It occasionally directs drivers onto unsuitable tracks. Cross-reference with a paper map or downloaded offline map.

·        If you are hesitant about Bealach na Bà, use the Shieldaig alternative. It adds mileage but saves the nerves.

·        Drive in daylight, especially on your first loop. Sunset and headlights on single-track roads at the end of a tiring day is not where you want to learn passing-place etiquette.

Start planning your trip

Once you have the shape of the route in your head, the next step is a day-by-day plan. We have three ready to use, depending on how much time you have:

·        5-day NC500 itinerary for a fast trip.

·        7-day NC500 itinerary for the recommended version.

·        10-day NC500 itinerary for a slower, deeper drive.

If you are still weighing up timing, read our guide to the best time of year to drive the NC500 and the ‘how long does the NC500 take’ guide. And for a curated list of places to stop along the way, have a look at our ‘25 best stops’ guide.

Frequently asked questions

How long is the NC500 route in miles and kilometres?

The official signed route is 516 miles or 830 kilometres. With detours to Cape Wrath, Assynt peninsulas or the Black Isle, most drivers end up covering closer to 600 miles.

Can you drive the NC500 in two days?

Technically yes. We strongly advise against it. Two days gets you round in a blur of driving with no time for stops, food or sleep. See our ‘how long does the NC500 take’ guide for realistic durations.

Is the NC500 all on single-track roads?

No. Roughly 30 to 40 percent of the route is single-track with passing places. The east coast and most of the north coast are standard two-lane road. The west coast and Assynt contain the bulk of the single-track driving.

Where can I download a free NC500 map?

A printable PDF map is available at the top of this page. We also recommend the official NC500 route map from northcoast500.com and the Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 series for serious detail.

Is Bealach na Bà closed in winter?

It is not officially closed, but the council often advises against driving it when snow or ice is present. In heavy winter conditions it may be gated off at short notice. Use the Shieldaig alternative if there is any doubt.