Driving the NC500 in a motorhome or campervan

Driving the NC500 by Motorhome or Campervan

The NC500 is arguably the best motorhome or campervan route in Britain. The scenery is constantly changing, the campsites are plentiful, the stops are spread out perfectly for a week of driving, and the trip ends where it begins so you do not have to work out how to get back. It also has a complicated recent history with large vehicles: locals have legitimate concerns about road damage, wild camping behaviour and the concentration of traffic on single-track roads, so the standard of driving expected from motorhome users has risen sharply.

This guide covers everything you need: hiring a motorhome, which sections suit which vehicles, where to park overnight, the etiquette, the practical realities, and how to do the trip in a way that leaves no mess behind. Use it alongside our campsites along the NC500 and the NC500 route map guide.

Hiring a motorhome or campervan for the NC500

Hire starts from Inverness in almost all cases. A small number of providers also operate from Edinburgh and Glasgow, but an Inverness pickup saves you a full day of driving in each direction. Book three to six months in advance for summer, especially for smaller campervans and anything described as dog-friendly.

What to look for in a hire vehicle

·        Size: fixed-bed motorhomes of up to 6.5 metres are the comfortable sweet spot. Anything over 7 metres struggles on single-track sections.

·        Drive type: manual transmission if you are comfortable with it, automatic otherwise. Automatics are easier on passing-place stops.

·        Habitation rating and insurance: make sure the policy covers single-track roads and remote recovery. Not all domestic policies do.

·        Toilet and shower: on-board facilities make the difference between a relaxed trip and a stressful one. Many small campervans do not have an on-board toilet.

·        Diesel fuel: most motorhomes are diesel. Budget for at least two to three tanks over the loop.

·        Dog-friendly: specified in writing, not assumed. Some hirers charge a supplement for dogs.

Typical costs

Expect to spend between £120 and £250 per night for a mid-size motorhome in high season. Campervan hire runs lower, typically £90 to £180 per night. Add fuel (roughly £350 to £500 for the loop depending on vehicle), campsite fees (£20 to £40 per night) and ferries if you add on Orkney.

Which sections suit which vehicles

Bealach na Bà

Do not drive a large motorhome or any vehicle towing a caravan over Bealach na Bà. The road has signs at both ends recommending it is unsuitable for these. The gradient, the single-track width and the hairpin bends make it genuinely unsafe for anything big. The alternative coastal road via Shieldaig is perfectly passable for all vehicles and adds about fifteen miles. See our full Bealach na Bà guide.

West and north coasts

Single-track with passing places runs for roughly 30 to 40 per cent of the loop. Most of this is on the west coast from Applecross to Durness and the far north section from Durness to Bettyhill. Mid-size motorhomes handle it fine at a reduced speed. Larger motorhomes need to take their time and be particularly disciplined about pulling into passing places early to let faster traffic through.

East coast

Two-lane roads throughout. Easiest section of the trip for any vehicle.

Overnight parking: campsites and the law

The legal position in Scotland is that the Outdoor Access Code permits informal wild camping in most places, but that right was written for tents and does not extend to motorhomes parked in lay-bys. Local councils in the Highlands have introduced no-overnight-parking signage at specific lay-bys and beach car parks. The practical answer for motorhome drivers is simple: use campsites.

Our campsites along the NC500 guide, which lists every main site around the loop, with amenities, season and suitability. A handful of hotels and pubs also offer 'campervan stopover' deals where you park up, eat dinner, and stay overnight for a fee.

If you are tempted to wild camp

A short, honest note. The tension between motorhome tourism and local communities is real and most of it comes from visitors parking up in inappropriate places and leaving waste behind. You do not need to contribute to that. Stick to campsites. Use toilets. Take your rubbish with you. Leave no trace. If everyone did that, the welcome for motorhomes on the NC500 would be much warmer.

The NC500 motorhome code

There is an informal code of conduct that has developed over the last decade. It is not enforced by anyone, but it is watched carefully by local drivers and tourism operators. The short version:

·        Pull into passing places to let faster traffic past. You are almost always the slower vehicle.

·        Never park half in and half out of a passing place. Use it properly or do not use it.

·        Use campsites. Do not park overnight in lay-bys, beach car parks or at the edges of villages.

·        Empty chemical toilets only at designated facilities at campsites. Never into drains, storm grates, fields or the sea.

·        Take all rubbish with you, including recycling, until you reach a proper bin.

·        Drive at a reasonable speed. Locals are trying to get to work, school or hospital.

·        If you are a larger motorhome and see a queue of cars behind you, pull over and let them past.

Practical packing for a motorhome trip

·        Gas: check you have a full bottle before setting off. Gas refills can be hard to find on the route.

·        Water: top up at every opportunity. Water taps are common at campsites but rare between.

·        Cash: some smaller campsites still prefer cash for pitch fees out of season.

·        Midge repellent: essential from mid-June to mid-September.

·        Layers: four seasons in an afternoon applies especially to anyone cooking on a gas hob with a door open.

·        Offline maps: mobile signal drops, a lot!

Dog-friendly motorhome travel

The NC500 is excellent for dogs. Most campsites are dog-friendly, most beaches allow dogs year-round, and most pubs that serve food have a dog-friendly corner. Specific dog-friendly motorhome hires are available: specify at the point of booking and confirm in writing. See our NC500 accommodation guide for more on dog-friendly stays off the road.

Seasonal notes for motorhome travellers

April, May, September and October are our recommended months for motorhome trips. The roads are quieter, campsites have availability, midges are fewer, and the weather is as good as it gets outside of peak summer. July and August involve booking every night in advance and putting up with busier single-track sections. Winter is technically possible but not recommended for first-time NC500 motorhome drivers. See our ‘best time to drive the NC500’ guide.

Frequently asked questions

Can you drive the NC500 in a motorhome?

Yes. The majority of motorhomes and campervans complete the loop without difficulty. The only section to avoid is Bealach na Bà for large vehicles, which has a perfectly good alternative via Shieldaig.

Can you wild camp on the NC500 in a motorhome?

The Scottish Outdoor Access Code covers informal wild camping for tents but does not apply to motorhomes in lay-bys. Many Highland lay-bys now have explicit no-overnight-parking signs. Use campsites.

How long does the NC500 take in a motorhome?

Allow seven to ten days. Motorhomes are slower on single-track roads and need more time to park and set up. See our ‘how long does the NC500 take’ guide.

Which campsites on the NC500 are motorhome-friendly?

Most. See the full list in our campsites along the NC500 guide, which specifies which sites have hookups, chemical toilet disposal and hardstanding pitches.

Is campervan hire expensive on the NC500?

Varies significantly. Smaller campervans start at around £90 per night in shoulder season. Larger motorhomes can exceed £250 per night in July. Book early to secure the best rates.