Whaligoe Steps and Waterfall: Scotland’s Most Dramatic Stair Workout
If you ever fancy combining jaw-dropping coastal views with a mild fear of heights and a leg workout that’ll make your quads weep, welcome to the Whaligoe Steps.
You’ll find them tucked on the east coast of Caithness, just south of Wick - one of those places that looks calm and innocent on Google Maps until you see the cliffs in person.
When I first saw them, I actually laughed out loud. The “path” drops like a staircase to the centre of the Earth - about 330 stone steps zig-zagging down a cliff face into the North Sea. It’s not a stroll; it’s an experience.
A Bit of History (and Grit)
The Whaligoe Steps history goes back to around 1792 when a chap named Captain David Brodie decided that a sheer cliff could double as a fishing harbour access route. Because why not? The steps were carved so local fishwives could haul baskets of herring up from the boats below. Picture this: you’re balancing 40 kg of slippery fish, it’s blowing a gale, and you’ve still got 300 steps to go before breakfast. That’s true Highland cardio.
The little Whaligoe Harbour at the bottom was once a busy spot during the herring boom. Women gutted and salted fish down there, packed barrels, and somehow made it all back up again. (This makes me ashamed that I moaned carrying just a tripod and a camera).
Today the harbour’s quiet - just the remains of the “Bink” (a stone platform), a salt store, and the sound of waves echoing up the gorge. It’s eerie and beautiful in equal measure.
Fun fact: the famous engineer Thomas Telford visited in the 1780s and called it a “terrible spot” for a harbour. He wasn’t wrong, but the locals made it work anyway.
The Waterfall You Might Miss
There’s also a Whaligoe waterfall - although calling it “hidden” might be generous. It’s tucked on the opposite cliff, trickling down in a curtain of water that catches the light on a sunny day. When I went, it was half-hidden as the wind was whipping the spray sideways, so I looked like I’d walked through a mist machine. Totally worth it.
If you’re snapping photos, look across the ravine rather than straight down. The waterfall gives you that “Scotland in one frame” shot - cliffs, sea, and a streak of silver water. It’s especially striking after rain. (Which, let’s face it, is most days in Caithness.)
Getting There (and Surviving the Car Park)
Here’s where reality kicks in. The Whaligoe Steps car park is small - like, “if there are more than ten cars, good luck turning around” small. The access road is narrow, and if you’re driving a motorhome, prepare for a three-point-turn masterclass.
But the parking is free, which makes up for it. Just be respectful of locals - this isn’t some mega-tourist attraction with a visitor centre and toilets. It’s a working community with a bit of chaos thrown in.
Speaking of amenities, there aren’t any. No cafe, no toilets, no souvenir fridge magnets. Bring water, a snack, and a sense of humour.
If you’re doing the North Coast 500, Whaligoe is a cracking stop between Wick and Lybster - a perfect place to stretch your legs and question your life choices halfway up the stairs.
The Climb (a.k.a. the Return to Reality)
Heading down, you’ll feel like a Victorian explorer. Heading back up, you’ll feel like you’re starring in your own fitness montage.
I counted roughly 350 steps before losing track - partly from exhaustion, partly from being distracted by the view. The Whaligoe Steps Caithness coastline is unreal: sheer cliffs, the sound of seabirds, and the North Sea crashing below.
You’ll pass a couple benches (aka “emergency recovery zones”) where you can catch your breath. Don’t rush it. Take it slow, look around, and imagine what this place was like 200 years ago when it was buzzing with boats.
Practical Tips for Visiting
Footwear: solid grip, not white trainers. The stones get slippery.
Timing: early morning or late afternoon is best. The light hits the cliffs beautifully and you’ll dodge the NC500 crowds.
Weather: it’s the east coast - windy even on calm days. Don’t bring a hat you like.
Dogs: allowed, but keep them on a lead unless they’re part mountain goat.
Photos: the top viewpoint gives you that iconic zig-zag shot of the steps. The best waterfall photo is from halfway down, looking across.
Why It’s Worth It
There’s something raw about Whaligoe. It’s not polished or packaged - it’s a genuine slice of Scottish coastal history that’s still clinging to the cliffs. You feel the past in the stones, the salt in the air, and the burn in your legs on the way back up.
The Whaligoe Steps waterfall, the crumbling harbour, the cliffs - it’s all proof that Scotland’s east coast can match the drama of the west. And best of all, it’s still free, uncrowded, and refreshingly authentic.
So yes, it’s a workout. Yes, you’ll pant like a spaniel by the top. But you’ll also leave with one of those “I can’t believe that’s real” memories that stick long after the photos fade.
